I was never a fan of tea. Where I grew up (South-Central Texas), “tea” means that syrupy, icy concoction you get at Bill Miller’s barbecue restaurants. Hot tea is available, but in my circle it was mostly associated with getting through illness, and not something you would drink voluntarily if you were in good health. Given the chemical taste of most American teas, I can see why it got that reputation.
Then I lived in England for six years. Tea is pretty much the national sport there. The English can’t get through a one-hour meeting without stopping in the middle for a tea break (you think I’m exaggerating, pfeh). So I thought I might pick up tea-drinking as a habit, but I still found English teas (which are far superior to American teas) to lack something in flavour. Add to that the fact that they insist on drowning their tea in milk, of all things… let’s just say I can count on one hand, with several fingers left over, the number of cups of English tea I have ever been able to finish completely. I was pretty sure at the end of my stay in England that tea just wasn’t my thing. I mean, if you can’t get into the groove in the tea capital of the world, the game’s pretty much over, right?
Well, then I moved to Turkey.
Tea is not a sport here; it’s an art. The first time I experienced Turkish tea was in a restaurant in Kemer where a friend of mine worked. I wasn’t particularly looking forward to it, given my past experiences with tea, but he assured me that this was “not at all like any tea you’ve ever had in the West.” Of course I was intrigued, and combined with the fact that tea in Turkey is served in small, voluptuous glasses that are as sexy as they are exotic— I couldn’t resist trying it.
Wow. This was different. It certainly did not taste processed like American tea, or bland like English tea. It was robust without being obnoxious. It was immensely flavourful and subtle at the same time. It didn’t require milk or three tons of sugar to help turn it into something palatable. I felt like this was the first real tea I’d ever had in my life. I sat there and kept refilling my glass all afternoon.
Since that time, nearly three years ago now, I’ve tried many brands and varieties of Turkish tea. We have our own two-story teapot (an absolute requirement in any Turkish home), and have gone through several sets of tea glasses (they’re delicate little things, and we’re not delicate people). I thought I had seen it and done it and drank it all.
Then a couple of weeks ago we got invited to a friend’s house, and after dinner he served the most wonderful tea I’ve ever had in my life. I had to have some. He kindly gave me some to take home, and I went through it very quickly. The leaves were much larger than the Turkish tea I was used to. The flavour was richer, more aromatic than our regular tea. Turns out it was Ceylon tea, which can be purchased at our weekly bazaar. It costs over twice as much as other teas, but it’s worth it. You make it the same way you make Turkish tea.
I’ll be quick to point out that this is not the same as the stuff in the United States that comes in tea bags and is marketed as so-called “Authenic Ceylon Tea.” The stuff I’m talking about is not made by Lipton or any other tea company you’ve ever heard of, and doesn’t come complete with a fancy marketing campaign. What I’m talking about is actual loose tea from Sri Lanka, authorised by the Sri Lanka Tea Board. And yes, getting the real thing makes a huge difference.
If you’d like to try some Turkish or Ceylon tea, there are many online resources (some more expensive than others) where you can have Turkish tea and tea sets shipped anywhere in the world. I suppose Tulumba is the most popular of these, but a quick Google search can turn up many more. Authentic Ceylon tea can be purchased directly from the Sri Lanka Tea Board’s online shopping service. If you want to make it the authentic way but don’t understand how to used the double-decker teapot, drop me a line and I’ll be happy to talk you through it. Once you’ve tried tea Turkish style, you’ll never drink microwaved milky leaf-wash out of a boring ceramic cylinder ever again.
I’m getting me some tea. I’ve never been a fan either of coffee’s wimpy sister, but you make the Turkish stuff sound great.
I’m getting me some tea. I’ve never been a fan either of coffee’s wimpy sister, but you make the Turkish stuff sound great.
When it comes to the tea, it’s the greatest article I ever see:) Even though I’m a Turk who is not a tea-lover, now I’ll go to the kitchen and prepare some:)
When it comes to the tea, it’s the greatest article I ever see:) Even though I’m a Turk who is not a tea-lover, now I’ll go to the kitchen and prepare some:)
Yay, that’s fantastic! And thanks for e-mailing me; I’ll get back to you on that subject later today.
Yay, that’s fantastic! And thanks for e-mailing me; I’ll get back to you on that subject later today.
[…] The above photo is one that will instantly conjure up countless memories for every Turk that sees it, but for the rest of you foreigners: it’s an evening of çay and tavla on the balcony, in the spring night air. Tavla is played on what appears to be a backgammon board (every Turkish household has one of these), but from what I understand the rules and scoring are slightly different from how backgammon is played elsewhere (I can’t say, because I was only introduced to the game after I came to Turkey). And Turkish tea, well… it’s good enough to keep you sitting there all night. This is such an instantly recognisable way for Turkish people to spend an evening, I thought I snap a photo and share. That’s Emrah on the left, and my beloved Emirhan on the right. Tags: culture, fun […]
[…] This is what my housemates surprised me with this morning— an amazing Turkish breakfast on the balcony. We’ve each got a little omelet with chunks of sausage (chicken sausage, of course— it tastes a lot better than it sounds), there’s a salad for the table to share, a bowl of olives (my favourite), and of course plenty of fresh bread with stuff to put on it: chocolate cream, butter spread, honey, and cheese. To drink, there’s your choice of Turkish tea or freshly homemade ayran, which is a yogurt drink, but not sweet like yogurt drinks we get in the West. […]
My experience was much like yours. I was in Jordan when I first tasted good (great!) tea. I couldn’t believe tea could taste so good. I was just drinking a cup of so-so tea with sage in it that vaguely reminded me of the tea I tasted in Jordan. I found your blog post after searching for what that tea could have been. I’ll be ordering some Turkish tea right away! By the way, which brands of Turkish tea did you like best?
Jason
My experience was much like yours. I was in Jordan when I first tasted good (great!) tea. I couldn’t believe tea could taste so good. I was just drinking a cup of so-so tea with sage in it that vaguely reminded me of the tea I tasted in Jordan. I found your blog post after searching for what that tea could have been. I’ll be ordering some Turkish tea right away! By the way, which brands of Turkish tea did you like best?
Jason
Ohh-i miss my Cay!!!!
This article is giving me a bad case of the nom noms!!!
We all just got back from an exchange program-anyway-number one thing i miss-the cay!!!
You should point out that it’s Burning hot-but you nom noms it anyway. i was always a pig-i’d put 2 or 3 sugar cubes in everyone-Gahhh!
it’s just making me sad-cause i doesn’t has one right here right now!!! =^_^=
Ohh-i miss my Cay!!!!
This article is giving me a bad case of the nom noms!!!
We all just got back from an exchange program-anyway-number one thing i miss-the cay!!!
You should point out that it’s Burning hot-but you nom noms it anyway. i was always a pig-i’d put 2 or 3 sugar cubes in everyone-Gahhh!
it’s just making me sad-cause i doesn’t has one right here right now!!! =^_^=